Painting Over Mold? The Truth About ‘Quick Fixes’

Mold is unsightly, and I understand that nobody wants to stare at a dark, blotchy patch on their bathroom ceiling or basement wall. Sure, a quick coat of paint seems like an easy way to make the problem disappear. But here’s the thing about “quick fixes”: they’re rarely fixes at all. Especially when it comes to mold.

Painting over mold is one of those home myths that just won’t die. It looks better for a little while, sure. But underneath that shiny new layer of paint, the problem is still there and it’s growing, spreading, and getting ready to bubble its way back to the surface.

Let’s talk about why this happens, what it means for your home, and the right way to deal with it (so you’re not repainting again next month).

Why Paint and Mold Don’t Mix

Mold is a living organism, not a stain. It feeds on organic material like drywall paper, wood, dust, and anything else it can digest. It also thrives in damp, humid environments. When you paint over mold, you’re basically trapping that living organism under a layer of latex and giving it a warm, dark place to multiply.

Even paints labeled as “mold-resistant” don’t kill existing mold; they simply make it harder for new spores to take hold. Think of them as preventive, not curative. Once mold has already started to grow, those spores will continue doing what they do best - eating, spreading, and eventually breaking through the surface again.

That’s why the dark spots you “covered up” always seem to come back, no matter how many coats you roll on. You didn’t solve the problem. You just hid it temporarily.

The Real Risk Isn’t Just Cosmetic

Mold isn’t just an eyesore. Prolonged exposure to mold spores can aggravate allergies, trigger asthma, and cause respiratory irritation, especially in kids, older adults, and anyone with a compromised immune system. Even if your home’s air feels fine, hidden mold can create ongoing air quality problems that only get worse over time. And if it spreads into insulation, behind drywall, or under flooring, you’re looking at a much bigger repair bill later.

So no, it’s not “just a little spot.” It’s a sign of a deeper moisture issue that needs your attention.

How to Fix It the Right Way

Before you paint, you have to address two things: the mold itself and the source of the moisture that caused it. Here’s the right order of operations:

1. Find the moisture source. Is there a roof leak, poor ventilation, a plumbing issue, or a condensation problem? Fix that first. Otherwise, the mold will just come back.

2. Kill the mold. For small areas (less than 10 square feet), you can usually handle it yourself. Wear gloves, a mask, and goggles, and use a cleaner designed to kill mold, not just bleach. Bleach can discolor mold, making it look gone when it isn’t.

3. Remove damaged material. If the mold has eaten into drywall, insulation, or wood, those materials need to go. Scraping and cleaning won’t cut it if the spores have taken root inside porous surfaces.

4. Dry the area completely. Fans and dehumidifiers are your friends. Moisture left behind is an open invitation for mold to start over.

5. Seal and repaint. Once the area is clean, dry, and sound, use a high-quality primer made for problem areas before painting. Products designed for bathrooms or basements help prevent future issues.

Prevent, Don’t Patch

Once you’ve done the hard work, prevention is your best defense. That means improving ventilation, keeping humidity below 50%, and addressing leaks immediately. It also means thinking long-term. Proper insulation, vapor barriers, and routine roof and gutter maintenance all play a role in keeping moisture (and mold) out.

Final Thoughts

Painting over mold might make things look better for a while, but it’s the home-improvement equivalent of spraying air freshener in a garbage can. The only real solution is to stop the problem at the source.

So, before you pick up that roller, step back, figure out what’s causing the moisture, and deal with the mold properly. It’ll save you time, money, and maybe even your lungs.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Attic Ventilation is Key for the Home

As summer gives way to cooler fall nights here in Connecticut, your attic becomes one of the hardest-working (and most overlooked) parts of the house. Trapped heat, lingering humidity, and poor airflow can quietly damage your roof from the inside out. The solution is simple but powerful: proper insulation and ventilation. When done right, this combination protects your roof, lowers energy costs, and delivers a return on investment that lasts for decades.

In our area, many attics are under-insulated and poorly ventilated. I still meet homeowners who want to save a few bucks by shingling over an old roof. The problem is, what you can’t see can hurt you - trapped moisture and heat can quietly rot plywood, cook shingles, and shorten a 30-year warranty roof to something far less.

Airflow is non-negotiable. A healthy attic “breathes”: fresh air in at the eaves and stale, warm, moisture-laden air out at the peak. Intake typically comes through continuous soffit vents or a product like SmartVent, which installs near the gutter line. For exhaust, modern ridge vents beat old louver (gable) vents. If you have both, keep the louvers closed - mixing systems turn those louvers into unintended intakes that only cool the top third of the attic and leave the rest to sweat it out.

Insulation and ventilation are a package deal. Ventilation manages airflow; insulation manages temperature. Fiberglass batts (yep, the pink or yellow stuff) and blown-in insulation reduce heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer. But without balanced ventilation, even the best insulation can absorb moisture, slump, and underperform - especially as temperatures swing this time of year. That’s when we see telltale signs like musty smells, rusty nails, and in cold snaps, even frost on the underside of roof decking.

A quick seasonal checklist can save you from expensive surprises:

• Make sure bath fans and dryer vents exhaust outside, not into the attic.

• Confirm continuous intake at soffits (baffles help keep insulation from blocking airflow).

• Use a continuous ridge vent for exhaust; don’t mix with open gable louvers.

• Air-seal attic penetrations (wires, pipes, light boxes) before adding insulation.

• Aim for appropriate insulation depth and even coverage, especially over the living areas.

Thinking about re-roofing? Ask your contractor for a ventilation and insulation plan - not just a shingle quote. Upgrading airflow and R-value when you replace a roof is the definition of smart timing. It protects the new shingles, preserves the roof deck, keeps comfort consistent, and trims energy costs season after season. In other words, it’s one of those un-flashy upgrades that pays you back quietly, year after year, while your neighbors wonder why their AC and furnace never seem to get a break.

As summer winds down and the furnace season creeps in, set your attic up to win. Proper insulation and ventilation will regulate temperatures, manage moisture, extend roof life, and safeguard warranties. It’s a modest upgrade with long-term dividends and comfort you can feel with savings you can count on.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros, Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro”. All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros, Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Ventilation 101: How to Keep Your Attic from Turning Into a Sauna

Most homeowners don’t think about their attic unless something goes wrong. But during the hot, humid summer months in Connecticut, poor attic ventilation can cause a lot of problems. Some you’ll feel in your cooling bills, and others you might not notice until it’s too late.

Here’s why proper attic ventilation matters and how to know if your home needs an upgrade.

Why Your Attic Needs to Breathe

Your attic should be the same temperature as the air outside. That might sound surprising, but it’s true. In the summer, without proper airflow, your attic can easily reach 130°F or higher. That heat doesn’t just stay in the attic - it radiates down into your living space, forcing your air conditioner to work harder and driving up energy costs.

Hot, stagnant air can also cause your roofing materials to age prematurely. Shingles can blister, underlayment can warp, and moisture can build up, leading to mold, mildew, and even wood rot.

Good ventilation helps control both heat and moisture, keeping your attic and roof in better shape, and your home more energy-efficient.

The Basics of a Ventilation System

A well-ventilated attic has two things: intake and exhaust. These work together to create a continuous flow of air.

• Intake vents (usually located in the soffits under your roof overhang) pull fresh air into the attic.

• Exhaust vents (at the roof ridge, gables, or high up on the roof slope) allow hot, humid air to escape.

This system relies on the natural movement of air—cool air in, hot air out.

Common Ventilation Types

• Ridge vents: Run along the peak of your roof and are often paired with soffit vents. They’re effective and barely noticeable from the street.
  Soffit vents: Located under your eaves, they bring in cool outside air.

• Gable vents: Installed on the walls of the attic, often used in older homes.

• Powered attic fans: Use electricity to actively pull hot air out. These can be helpful but aren’t always necessary if passive ventilation is working properly.

Signs of Poor Attic Ventilation

• Your upstairs rooms are always hotter than the rest of the house.

• You notice high energy bills in the summer.

• Your roof shingles are curling or deteriorating faster than expected.

• There’s mold or a musty smell in the attic.

• You see frost or condensation in the attic during winter (yes, ventilation matters year-round).

Here in Connecticut, we deal with humid summers and cold winters, which means both heat and moisture are issues. That makes proper attic ventilation even more important. It’s not just about comfort, it’s about protecting your roof, improving air quality, and saving on long-term energy costs.

If you’re unsure whether your attic is properly ventilated, a quick inspection by a professional can help. It’s one of those home systems that’s easy to overlook, until it’s not.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Got a home issue you’d like Bob to tackle? Email info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.