Attic Ventilation is Key for the Home

As summer gives way to cooler fall nights here in Connecticut, your attic becomes one of the hardest-working (and most overlooked) parts of the house. Trapped heat, lingering humidity, and poor airflow can quietly damage your roof from the inside out. The solution is simple but powerful: proper insulation and ventilation. When done right, this combination protects your roof, lowers energy costs, and delivers a return on investment that lasts for decades.

In our area, many attics are under-insulated and poorly ventilated. I still meet homeowners who want to save a few bucks by shingling over an old roof. The problem is, what you can’t see can hurt you - trapped moisture and heat can quietly rot plywood, cook shingles, and shorten a 30-year warranty roof to something far less.

Airflow is non-negotiable. A healthy attic “breathes”: fresh air in at the eaves and stale, warm, moisture-laden air out at the peak. Intake typically comes through continuous soffit vents or a product like SmartVent, which installs near the gutter line. For exhaust, modern ridge vents beat old louver (gable) vents. If you have both, keep the louvers closed - mixing systems turn those louvers into unintended intakes that only cool the top third of the attic and leave the rest to sweat it out.

Insulation and ventilation are a package deal. Ventilation manages airflow; insulation manages temperature. Fiberglass batts (yep, the pink or yellow stuff) and blown-in insulation reduce heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer. But without balanced ventilation, even the best insulation can absorb moisture, slump, and underperform - especially as temperatures swing this time of year. That’s when we see telltale signs like musty smells, rusty nails, and in cold snaps, even frost on the underside of roof decking.

A quick seasonal checklist can save you from expensive surprises:

• Make sure bath fans and dryer vents exhaust outside, not into the attic.

• Confirm continuous intake at soffits (baffles help keep insulation from blocking airflow).

• Use a continuous ridge vent for exhaust; don’t mix with open gable louvers.

• Air-seal attic penetrations (wires, pipes, light boxes) before adding insulation.

• Aim for appropriate insulation depth and even coverage, especially over the living areas.

Thinking about re-roofing? Ask your contractor for a ventilation and insulation plan - not just a shingle quote. Upgrading airflow and R-value when you replace a roof is the definition of smart timing. It protects the new shingles, preserves the roof deck, keeps comfort consistent, and trims energy costs season after season. In other words, it’s one of those un-flashy upgrades that pays you back quietly, year after year, while your neighbors wonder why their AC and furnace never seem to get a break.

As summer winds down and the furnace season creeps in, set your attic up to win. Proper insulation and ventilation will regulate temperatures, manage moisture, extend roof life, and safeguard warranties. It’s a modest upgrade with long-term dividends and comfort you can feel with savings you can count on.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros, Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro”. All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros, Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Ceiling Cracks: When to Worry and When to Relax

Noticing a crack in your ceiling can be unsettling. Is it a simple cosmetic issue or a sign that something more serious is going on above your head?

The truth is, not all ceiling cracks are created equal. Some are harmless, the result of your home settling or seasonal changes. Others may point to structural problems, water damage, or something worse. Knowing the difference can save you time, money, and a whole lot of stress.

The Harmless Kind

Let’s start with the good news: most ceiling cracks are minor and purely cosmetic. These are often hairline cracks that appear in older homes or around joints where drywall meets. They’re usually caused by:

• Normal settling as your house ages

• Temperature and humidity fluctuations

• Drying or shrinking plaster or drywall compound

These cracks are usually thin, less than 1/16 of an inch wide, and don’t change much over time. You might see them in corners, near windows or doors, or in ceilings that haven’t been repainted in a while. They’re rarely a cause for concern.

If the crack hasn’t grown in size, isn’t discolored, and your ceiling is otherwise solid, it’s likely just a visual issue. A quick patch and paint job can take care of it.

The Concerning Kind

Now, the cracks that deserve a closer look. Here are some warning signs that what you’re seeing might be more than cosmetic:

• Cracks wider than 1/8 inch

• Cracks that run across the entire ceiling or extend down a wall

• Multiple cracks appearing suddenly

• Cracks accompanied by sagging, bowing, or soft spots

• Discoloration or staining around the crack

Any of these could indicate a structural issue, such as shifting foundations, water damage, or even a failing ceiling joist. If the ceiling feels soft to the touch or is visibly sagging, it’s time to call in a professional.

One common culprit is water. A roof leak, plumbing issue, or overflowing bathtub on an upper floor can all lead to water pooling in the ceiling. This can cause the material to weaken, crack, and eventually collapse if ignored.

Even more subtle signs, like a ceiling crack that grows over time or changes shape, can point to movement in your home’s framing. That’s not something a coat of paint can fix.

If you’re unsure whether a crack is harmless or serious, don’t guess. Take a photo and monitor it over a few weeks. Has it changed? Is there new discoloration or softness?

When in doubt, have a licensed contractor or home inspector take a look. An early opinion is usually cheaper, and safer, than waiting until a repair becomes urgent.

Ceiling cracks are common. Many are nothing to worry about. But some aren’t. The key is knowing what to look for and acting quickly when the signs point to something more. Your ceiling might be trying to tell you something. Make sure you’re listening.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Have a question? Email info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Steamy Temps Bring Summer Window Woes

This past week’s brutal heat and sky-high humidity had many of us hiding indoors, glued to the AC. But while we were doing our best to stay cool, our windows may have been trying to tell us something. If you’ve noticed water droplets forming on the inside of your windows—or a foggy film that just won’t quit—you’re dealing with summer window condensation. And no, it’s not just a minor annoyance. It can be a sign of bigger problems brewing in your home.

So, what’s going on here?

Condensation forms when warm, humid air hits a cooler surface. In the winter, that’s usually on the inside of your windows. But in the summer, it’s the reverse. Your air conditioner is keeping your indoor air refreshingly cool, while the air outside is heavy and hot. When those two climates meet, like when humid air seeps in and touches your chilly window glass, moisture condenses, and you get that telltale fog or water buildup.

In reality, a little condensation now and then isn’t the end of the world. But if you’re noticing it regularly, especially during extreme heat and humidity, it can point to problems with ventilation, insulation, or moisture control in your home.

In our Connecticut climate, summer humidity is no joke. Add in long showers, laundry, cooking, and even houseplants, and you’ve got a recipe for excess indoor moisture. If your home doesn’t have proper airflow or if your windows aren’t up to the job, that moisture sticks around, and your windows become the battleground where it all shows up.

And here’s the thing: if you ignore it, condensation can go from cosmetic to costly. Excess moisture creates the perfect environment for mold and mildew, which can trigger allergies, irritate lungs, and leave a lingering musty smell. Over time, moisture can also cause wood window frames to warp or rot, damage seals, and reduce your windows’ effectiveness. Even if it’s just clouding your view, you’re still losing out on natural light and visibility.

So, what can you do?

Start with airflow. Use exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens, and don’t be afraid to crack a window when the outdoor air is drier. A dehumidifier can also make a significant difference, especially in areas prone to moisture, such as basements.

Next, take a hard look at your windows. If they’re single-pane or older double-pane units, they might not be insulating properly. Modern double- or triple-pane windows are designed to prevent this kind of condensation by minimizing temperature swings on the glass surface.

And don’t forget the little things like sealing air leaks around windows and doors, opening blinds or drapes during the day to improve air circulation, and keeping indoor plant collections in check. Every small step helps.

Condensation might seem like a minor inconvenience, but it’s often a symptom of bigger issues in your home’s comfort and energy efficiency. Take care of it now, and your windows and your wallet will thank you later.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Got a home issue you’d like Bob to tackle? Email info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.