Painting Over Mold? The Truth About ‘Quick Fixes’

Mold is unsightly, and I understand that nobody wants to stare at a dark, blotchy patch on their bathroom ceiling or basement wall. Sure, a quick coat of paint seems like an easy way to make the problem disappear. But here’s the thing about “quick fixes”: they’re rarely fixes at all. Especially when it comes to mold.

Painting over mold is one of those home myths that just won’t die. It looks better for a little while, sure. But underneath that shiny new layer of paint, the problem is still there and it’s growing, spreading, and getting ready to bubble its way back to the surface.

Let’s talk about why this happens, what it means for your home, and the right way to deal with it (so you’re not repainting again next month).

Why Paint and Mold Don’t Mix

Mold is a living organism, not a stain. It feeds on organic material like drywall paper, wood, dust, and anything else it can digest. It also thrives in damp, humid environments. When you paint over mold, you’re basically trapping that living organism under a layer of latex and giving it a warm, dark place to multiply.

Even paints labeled as “mold-resistant” don’t kill existing mold; they simply make it harder for new spores to take hold. Think of them as preventive, not curative. Once mold has already started to grow, those spores will continue doing what they do best - eating, spreading, and eventually breaking through the surface again.

That’s why the dark spots you “covered up” always seem to come back, no matter how many coats you roll on. You didn’t solve the problem. You just hid it temporarily.

The Real Risk Isn’t Just Cosmetic

Mold isn’t just an eyesore. Prolonged exposure to mold spores can aggravate allergies, trigger asthma, and cause respiratory irritation, especially in kids, older adults, and anyone with a compromised immune system. Even if your home’s air feels fine, hidden mold can create ongoing air quality problems that only get worse over time. And if it spreads into insulation, behind drywall, or under flooring, you’re looking at a much bigger repair bill later.

So no, it’s not “just a little spot.” It’s a sign of a deeper moisture issue that needs your attention.

How to Fix It the Right Way

Before you paint, you have to address two things: the mold itself and the source of the moisture that caused it. Here’s the right order of operations:

1. Find the moisture source. Is there a roof leak, poor ventilation, a plumbing issue, or a condensation problem? Fix that first. Otherwise, the mold will just come back.

2. Kill the mold. For small areas (less than 10 square feet), you can usually handle it yourself. Wear gloves, a mask, and goggles, and use a cleaner designed to kill mold, not just bleach. Bleach can discolor mold, making it look gone when it isn’t.

3. Remove damaged material. If the mold has eaten into drywall, insulation, or wood, those materials need to go. Scraping and cleaning won’t cut it if the spores have taken root inside porous surfaces.

4. Dry the area completely. Fans and dehumidifiers are your friends. Moisture left behind is an open invitation for mold to start over.

5. Seal and repaint. Once the area is clean, dry, and sound, use a high-quality primer made for problem areas before painting. Products designed for bathrooms or basements help prevent future issues.

Prevent, Don’t Patch

Once you’ve done the hard work, prevention is your best defense. That means improving ventilation, keeping humidity below 50%, and addressing leaks immediately. It also means thinking long-term. Proper insulation, vapor barriers, and routine roof and gutter maintenance all play a role in keeping moisture (and mold) out.

Final Thoughts

Painting over mold might make things look better for a while, but it’s the home-improvement equivalent of spraying air freshener in a garbage can. The only real solution is to stop the problem at the source.

So, before you pick up that roller, step back, figure out what’s causing the moisture, and deal with the mold properly. It’ll save you time, money, and maybe even your lungs.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Waterproofing Your Chimney

With recent summer rainstorms bringing unexpected downpours, homeowners need to pay extra attention to their chimneys. A chimney can be a hidden source of leaks and damage if not properly maintained. Waterproofing your chimney is essential to protect your home from moisture damage, ensuring it remains safe and sound throughout the year. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you waterproof your chimney effectively.

Why Waterproof Your Chimney?

Chimneys are exposed to the elements year-round, making them susceptible to water damage. Bricks and mortar can absorb water, leading to deterioration over time. This process can cause cracks, spalling (flaking of the brick surface), and even structural damage. Waterproofing your chimney not only prevents these issues but also extends its lifespan, saving you money on potential repairs.

Assess the Current Condition

Before you begin waterproofing, inspect your chimney for any existing damage. Look for cracks, loose mortar, or spalling bricks. If you find significant damage, it’s best to have a professional mason repair these issues before proceeding with waterproofing. Minor cracks and gaps can be filled with a high-quality chimney sealant.

Clean the Chimney

A clean surface is crucial for effective waterproofing. Remove any dirt, moss, or debris from the chimney using a wire brush and a garden hose. For stubborn stains, a mild detergent solution can be used. Ensure the chimney is completely dry before applying any waterproofing products.

Choose the Right Waterproofing Product

There are various waterproofing products available, but not all are suitable for chimneys. Opt for a breathable, water-repellent solution designed specifically for masonry. These products allow water vapor to escape from the brick while preventing liquid water from penetrating the surface.

Apply the Waterproofing Solution

1. Preparation: Wear protective gloves and eyewear. Cover the surrounding area to protect it from overspray.

2. Application: Using a pump sprayer or a paintbrush, apply the waterproofing solution evenly across the entire chimney surface. Start from the bottom and work your way up to ensure complete coverage. Be generous with the application, but avoid over-saturating any area.

3. Second Coat: After the first coat has dried (usually within a few hours, depending on the product), apply a second coat for added protection.

4. Drying Time: Allow the chimney to dry thoroughly. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for specific drying times, but typically, it takes about 24-48 hours for the solution to cure completely.

Regular Maintenance

Waterproofing is not a one-time fix. Inspect your chimney annually, especially after heavy rainstorms, to ensure the waterproofing is intact. Reapply the waterproofing solution every 5-7 years, or as recommended by the product manufacturer.

Waterproofing your chimney is a straightforward task that can save you from costly repairs and headaches down the line. However, this project should only be done if you’re completely comfortable on a roof and using a ladder. If this kind of home maintenance task isn't something you do regularly, it’s a good idea to call a professional. No home improvement job is worth a trip to the emergency room. 

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Sealing Your Attic Hatchway

Most homeowners don’t realize that the pulldown attic stairway is one of the biggest heat loss culprits in the house. Many of us don’t go up into the attic very often other than to get holiday decorations from storage or maybe grab the suitcases for an upcoming vacation. Because we don’t access the attic all that much, we often don’t realize how much the temperature up there fluctuates and how much heat and air conditioning we are losing through the space. 

I can’t tell you the number of times that I have gone into an attic to find frozen water droplets on the tips of the roofing nails. Because homes are underinsulated and underventilated, the attic gets very hot in the summer and below freezing in the winter. Condensation and moisture can become a major problem, causing rot in the wood and mold on soft surfaces. 

But then of course there is the heat loss issue. We all know that heat rises and because most Connecticut homes are majorly underinsulated, we end up losing tons of warm air through the attic hatch. Plenty of people use draft strips and different kinds of sealant on doors and windows, but this entry point is almost always overlooked even though it’s the most important. The same goes for whole-house fans.

One of the common solutions we always recommend is installing an insulated box to cover the attic entryway or a built-in house fan. An insulated box is made from heavy-duty insulation and sealed with expanding foam. The box sits on top of the stairs when they are folded inside the attic, creating a barrier that still allows the homeowner to access the space as they need to. This simple structure reduces the amount of heat loss seeping from the living space of the home, making for a much more comfortable and energy-efficient environment. 

I always recommend that homeowners have their insulation and ventilation checked to keep their homes healthy, reduce their energy bills, and live more comfortably. While insulation is a very cost-efficient and easy home improvement, an insulated box is an excellent solution to achieve some of the goals of an insulation-optimized house for just a few hundred dollars. You’ll be shocked at the difference it makes. 

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.