Painting Over Mold? The Truth About ‘Quick Fixes’

Mold is unsightly, and I understand that nobody wants to stare at a dark, blotchy patch on their bathroom ceiling or basement wall. Sure, a quick coat of paint seems like an easy way to make the problem disappear. But here’s the thing about “quick fixes”: they’re rarely fixes at all. Especially when it comes to mold.

Painting over mold is one of those home myths that just won’t die. It looks better for a little while, sure. But underneath that shiny new layer of paint, the problem is still there and it’s growing, spreading, and getting ready to bubble its way back to the surface.

Let’s talk about why this happens, what it means for your home, and the right way to deal with it (so you’re not repainting again next month).

Why Paint and Mold Don’t Mix

Mold is a living organism, not a stain. It feeds on organic material like drywall paper, wood, dust, and anything else it can digest. It also thrives in damp, humid environments. When you paint over mold, you’re basically trapping that living organism under a layer of latex and giving it a warm, dark place to multiply.

Even paints labeled as “mold-resistant” don’t kill existing mold; they simply make it harder for new spores to take hold. Think of them as preventive, not curative. Once mold has already started to grow, those spores will continue doing what they do best - eating, spreading, and eventually breaking through the surface again.

That’s why the dark spots you “covered up” always seem to come back, no matter how many coats you roll on. You didn’t solve the problem. You just hid it temporarily.

The Real Risk Isn’t Just Cosmetic

Mold isn’t just an eyesore. Prolonged exposure to mold spores can aggravate allergies, trigger asthma, and cause respiratory irritation, especially in kids, older adults, and anyone with a compromised immune system. Even if your home’s air feels fine, hidden mold can create ongoing air quality problems that only get worse over time. And if it spreads into insulation, behind drywall, or under flooring, you’re looking at a much bigger repair bill later.

So no, it’s not “just a little spot.” It’s a sign of a deeper moisture issue that needs your attention.

How to Fix It the Right Way

Before you paint, you have to address two things: the mold itself and the source of the moisture that caused it. Here’s the right order of operations:

1. Find the moisture source. Is there a roof leak, poor ventilation, a plumbing issue, or a condensation problem? Fix that first. Otherwise, the mold will just come back.

2. Kill the mold. For small areas (less than 10 square feet), you can usually handle it yourself. Wear gloves, a mask, and goggles, and use a cleaner designed to kill mold, not just bleach. Bleach can discolor mold, making it look gone when it isn’t.

3. Remove damaged material. If the mold has eaten into drywall, insulation, or wood, those materials need to go. Scraping and cleaning won’t cut it if the spores have taken root inside porous surfaces.

4. Dry the area completely. Fans and dehumidifiers are your friends. Moisture left behind is an open invitation for mold to start over.

5. Seal and repaint. Once the area is clean, dry, and sound, use a high-quality primer made for problem areas before painting. Products designed for bathrooms or basements help prevent future issues.

Prevent, Don’t Patch

Once you’ve done the hard work, prevention is your best defense. That means improving ventilation, keeping humidity below 50%, and addressing leaks immediately. It also means thinking long-term. Proper insulation, vapor barriers, and routine roof and gutter maintenance all play a role in keeping moisture (and mold) out.

Final Thoughts

Painting over mold might make things look better for a while, but it’s the home-improvement equivalent of spraying air freshener in a garbage can. The only real solution is to stop the problem at the source.

So, before you pick up that roller, step back, figure out what’s causing the moisture, and deal with the mold properly. It’ll save you time, money, and maybe even your lungs.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Is Fall Mold Creeping Onto Your Roof

As the crisp autumn air settles in and the leaves start to fall, most homeowners are focused on pumpkin decor and raking their yards. But there’s something sneaky that may be settling in overhead: roof mold. Yes, fall is prime time for mold to make itself at home on your shingles, and ignoring it could lead to bigger (and more expensive) problems down the road.

Let’s break down what roof mold is, why it thrives in the fall, and what you can do to kick it to the curb before it spreads.

Why Fall Is Mold’s Favorite Season

Mold is a fungus that loves moisture, shade, and organic debris - all of which come together perfectly during autumn in New England. Here’s why:

• Falling Leaves: Leaves that land on your roof can trap moisture and block sunlight, creating damp, shaded pockets where mold thrives.

• Cooler Temperatures: As temperatures drop, homeowners may not notice excess moisture buildup because it’s not evaporating as quickly.

• Shorter Days: Less sunlight means less natural drying power for your roof.

• Clogged Gutters: Leaf-filled gutters lead to poor drainage and water pooling on the roof. Mold eats this up, literally.

What Mold Does to Your Roof (It’s Not Just Ugly)

Roof mold might seem like just a cosmetic issue, until it isn’t. Here’s what can happen if mold takes hold:

• Shingle Damage: Mold can deteriorate asphalt shingles and shorten your roof’s lifespan. It eats away at the granules that protect your roof from UV rays and weather damage.

• Wood Rot: If moisture seeps beneath the shingles, it can lead to rotting of the underlying wood structures, threatening your roof’s structural integrity.

• Insulation Issues: Mold creeping into your attic or insulation can ruin energy efficiency, sending your heating bills through the roof - pun intended.

• Health Concerns: Mold spores can make their way into your home’s air, potentially triggering allergies, asthma, or other respiratory issues for your family.

How to Stop Fall Mold Before It Starts

The good news? Roof mold isn’t inevitable. With a little proactive maintenance, you can keep your roof mold-free all season long. Here’s how:

1. Clean Your Roof (and Gutters)
   Leaves, twigs, and debris are mold’s favorite housewarming gifts. Clear your roof and gutters regularly, especially after a big wind or rainstorm.

2. Check Your Attic Ventilation
   Poor airflow in the attic can trap moisture and encourage mold growth from the inside out. Make sure vents are clear and consider installing an attic fan if airflow is limited.

3. Trim Back Overhanging Branches
   Shade is great for picnics, not for roofs. Cutting back branches allows more sunlight to hit your roof and dry up any lingering moisture.

4. Inspect for Leaks and Damaged Shingles

   Take a walk around your home and look for signs of water damage, cracked shingles, or dark streaks. If you spot anything suspicious, call in a pro.

5. Consider Copper or Zinc Strips
   These metal strips, installed near the peak of your roof, naturally kill mold and algae as rainwater washes down over them. It’s a smart investment for long-term mold prevention.

6. Book a Professional Roof Inspection
   Fall is an ideal time to have a professional take a look. They can spot early signs of mold or damage you might miss from the ground.

When in Doubt, Call It Out

If you already see mold growing on your roof, don’t panic, but don’t ignore it either. DIY solutions may help with small patches, but for widespread or stubborn growth, it’s best to bring in the experts. Professional mold removal will ensure it’s safely and thoroughly taken care of, without damaging your roof in the process.

A clean, mold-free roof isn’t just about curb appeal. It’s about protecting your investment, your home’s structural integrity, and your family’s health. So this fall, while you’re sipping cider and enjoying the foliage, take a few minutes to look up. Your roof might be trying to tell you something.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Ventilation 101: How to Keep Your Attic from Turning Into a Sauna

Most homeowners don’t think about their attic unless something goes wrong. But during the hot, humid summer months in Connecticut, poor attic ventilation can cause a lot of problems. Some you’ll feel in your cooling bills, and others you might not notice until it’s too late.

Here’s why proper attic ventilation matters and how to know if your home needs an upgrade.

Why Your Attic Needs to Breathe

Your attic should be the same temperature as the air outside. That might sound surprising, but it’s true. In the summer, without proper airflow, your attic can easily reach 130°F or higher. That heat doesn’t just stay in the attic - it radiates down into your living space, forcing your air conditioner to work harder and driving up energy costs.

Hot, stagnant air can also cause your roofing materials to age prematurely. Shingles can blister, underlayment can warp, and moisture can build up, leading to mold, mildew, and even wood rot.

Good ventilation helps control both heat and moisture, keeping your attic and roof in better shape, and your home more energy-efficient.

The Basics of a Ventilation System

A well-ventilated attic has two things: intake and exhaust. These work together to create a continuous flow of air.

• Intake vents (usually located in the soffits under your roof overhang) pull fresh air into the attic.

• Exhaust vents (at the roof ridge, gables, or high up on the roof slope) allow hot, humid air to escape.

This system relies on the natural movement of air—cool air in, hot air out.

Common Ventilation Types

• Ridge vents: Run along the peak of your roof and are often paired with soffit vents. They’re effective and barely noticeable from the street.
  Soffit vents: Located under your eaves, they bring in cool outside air.

• Gable vents: Installed on the walls of the attic, often used in older homes.

• Powered attic fans: Use electricity to actively pull hot air out. These can be helpful but aren’t always necessary if passive ventilation is working properly.

Signs of Poor Attic Ventilation

• Your upstairs rooms are always hotter than the rest of the house.

• You notice high energy bills in the summer.

• Your roof shingles are curling or deteriorating faster than expected.

• There’s mold or a musty smell in the attic.

• You see frost or condensation in the attic during winter (yes, ventilation matters year-round).

Here in Connecticut, we deal with humid summers and cold winters, which means both heat and moisture are issues. That makes proper attic ventilation even more important. It’s not just about comfort, it’s about protecting your roof, improving air quality, and saving on long-term energy costs.

If you’re unsure whether your attic is properly ventilated, a quick inspection by a professional can help. It’s one of those home systems that’s easy to overlook, until it’s not.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Got a home issue you’d like Bob to tackle? Email info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.